Barns of Doniphan County, Kansas
Doniphan County is located in the far north-east corner of Kansas and is the second-smallest by total area, with a total population of around 7500. The county seat is Troy (pop. 964) and the largest city is Wathena (pop. 1246). K-7 Highway from Leavenworth to White Cloud was designated The Glacial Hills Scenic Byway in early 2003. The name comes from the rolling hills and rock-strewn valleys carved by ancient glaciers. The receding ice left behind a beautiful landscape and highly fertile farmland, with soil made up of windblown loess. I may drive this Scenic Byway at a later time, but for now attention is focused on the barns of Doniphan County.
The hilly landscape gave rise to a particular type of agricultural barn, namely the Byre and Bluff barn. From the Old English, a byre is a barn especially one used for keeping cattle in. Nowadays we might call these cow barn. Eighteen of these barns in Doniphan County were listed on the National Register of Historic Places on May 7, 1987. Writes the 1985 nomination form,[1]
the eighteen nominated byre and bluff barns of Doniphan County (ca .1860-1933) are located south of US Highway 36 in Doniphan County, Kansas (pop. 9,268), with the exception of three barns which are located north of the highway. The land south of the: present highway has a gently rolling terrain, historically attracting stock and dairy cattle farmers. The land north of the highway borders the Missouri River and is rimmed by massive bluffs of unstable, loess soil.
Most of the nominated barns were built to house stock and dairy cows and remain in active agricultural use. These vernacular wooden and cement structures share a common feature in that at least one side of each barn’s foundation is embedded in an earthen bank or bluff; the majority of the barns are built into shallow banks, two of the barns are built into bluffs.
Twelve of the eighteen barns are one-story, three-bay, center entrance, wooden structures with limestone foundations and gable roofs. Eleven of these twelve structures have full byre or basement levels. All of the barns are characterized as one-story, having either a threshing or a hay floor on the ground level and a byre or basement level; eleven of the barns have extant hay lofts. Fourteen of the barns are built into a northern embankment.
There are groupings of period types, such as the six board and batten gable roof barns constructed in the 1870s and 1880s whose louvered venting forms an integral part of their styling; the three, large, gambrel roof, cement barns of the 1910s and 1930s, two of which were built into bluffs; and the gradual transition from mortised and tenoned,[2] post and beam construction to nailed plank and balloon framing.
The byre and bluff barns of Doniphan County are relatively rare. The nominated barns maintain a high degree of structural and architectural integrity, the common alteration affecting many of the buildings has been the replacement of the original roof with a metal roof.
Doniphan County (est. 1855) experienced a substantial population increase in the twenty years following the Civil War, with many settlers moving from Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Germany. The barn building traditions brought by these settlers combined with the suitable topography contributed to the building of the byre and bluff barn type in Doniphan County. Most of the: nominated barns are three-bay, center entrance, gable roof structures with limestone foundations, a full byre, a threshing floor, and a hay loft. There are groupings of period types, such as the board and batten barns with louvered vents from the 1870s and 1880s, the large, gambrel roof barns from 1910s, 1920s and 1930s, and the gradual transition from post and beam construction to plank framing.
In 1891 J D Walters of the Kansas State Agricultural College called the byre (bank)/bluff barn an “all-purpose barn of the Kansas farmer” in an article entitled “The Barn” which was published in the Quarterly Report of the Kansas State Board of Agriculture. Walters described the bank barn as follows:
It gives a warm basement for the milk cows -and cattle, and an accessible second story for the draught animals-for tools, machines, harness, and grain–and a roomy attic, or loft, for hay, straw, and fodder. In many states this form is objectionable for sanitary reasons, but in the dry climate of Kansas it is preferable to any other, unless there should be an unusually moist ledge directly against or under it. The building should be located so that the basement will be partly in the ground on the north and west, and so that a low embankment, or filling, on these sides will give access to the second story.
While the byre or bluff barn presented a practical solution for Doniphan County’s rolling topography, harsh winters, and high winds, it was not the most common solution. The byre and bluff barns built between 1860 and 1933 generally cost from $2,000.00 to $3,000.00 and while this may have been cost effective investment, it was an expensive investment. In addition, the higher degree of skilled craftsmanship required to construct a byre or bluff barn as opposed to most barns without foundations also hindered their construction. While the byre and bluff barns of Doniphan County are a sturdy survivor of a barn type built in Doniphan County between 1860 and 1933 they are not prolific, being far outnumbered by more inexpensive, rectangular wooden barns without foundations.
The Doniphan County barns were part of the Smithsonian Traveling Exhibit “Barn Again! Celebrating an American Icon.” The County provides a brochure about the Historic Barn Tour[3] that includes a location map. The problem with that map (shown above) is that the actual addresses or coordinates of the barns are not included, making it next to impossible to locate the barns, many of which are on unpaved side township roads. Luckily the Kansas Historical Society does provide that information, allowing me to create a GoogleEarth location map and plan the tour ahead of time. Starting at the Symns Barn, the tour around the county takes about six hours, using GPS to travel from location to location, and stopping at each site to take pictures. In the following, descriptions of the barns are from the nomination forms submitted to the National Register of Historic Places. These forms can be found on the Kansas Historical Society website.[4]
The John Fuhrken Barn south of Denton was the only round barn on the list. Unfortunately, this historic barn, built around 1914-1915 and in good condition in 1999, was destroyed by winds in 2012.
First on the list is the T L White Barn (ca. 1927), at 463 K-7 HWY (West side), located on the Symns Farm near Bendena. The one-story, center entrance, poured cement barn has a full byre built into the north and west embankments with a pressed metal shingled, gambrel roof. The barn measures forty-seven feet from east to west and thirty-three feet from north to south. Originally constructed as a stock barn, it continues to be used in farm operations and looks to be in excellent condition.
T L White Barn (ca. 1927).
Farmhouse at 463 K-7 HWY. The picture on the left shows the grey roof of the White Barn in the background.
On the other side of K-7, at no 464, is the much older J A Symns Barn (ca. 1880). The one-story, three-bay, center entrance, horizontally lap sided barn has a full byre built into a gradual east to west slope with a limestone foundation and asphalt shingled gable roof. The barn measures sixty feet from north to south and eighty feet from east to west. This barn was originally constructed as a cattle barn and also is still in operation. J A Symns was a wealthy breeder of cattle, who emigrated from Monroe County, West Virginia to Doniphan County in 1865. The barn remained in the Symns family until 1924. The shingles have been replaced by a metal roof, but otherwise the barn looks unchanged and continues to be in use.
J A Symns Barn (ca. 1880).
Jordan Creek Church and Cemetery.
On my way to the next barn I passed by the small Jordan Creek Church and Cemetery, on 120th Road. A web search did not yield any information about this church or its cemetery.
According to the Kansas Historical Society, the Albert Albers Barn (ca. 1897) is located at 537 Friendship Road. However, there is no barn at that location but there is one a short distance to the south, at 511 Friendship Road. Judging by the black cows surrounding this barn it continues to be in use. Comparison with photographs of the Albers Barn posted online by the KHS remained inconclusive as to definitely identifying this barn. Also, there is no apparent bluff into which this barn was built. Albert Albers was the American born son of German immigrants. In 1903, shortly after building the barn, Albers sold his farm to George Peuker, who bred Hereford cattle.
Barn with cows at 511 Friendship Road.
The M D L Williams Barn (ca. 1901) is located at 508 Eminence Road. The one-story, three-bay, center entrance, German lap sided barn has a partial byre with a limestone foundation and metal sheathed, gambrel roof. The barn measures thirty-six feet from east to west and twenty feet from north to south. The byre is built into the south, east, and north embankments. Marquis D L Williams, a native of Missouri, moved to Doniphan County in 1883, and worked as a farmhand until 1887. He then purchased and developed a farm in northern Wolf River Township and in 1900 purchased the land on which the barn stands, having it built soon thereafter. The barn stands back from the road and I could not get a clear and unobstructed picture without venturing too far onto private property.
M D L Williams Barn (ca. 1901).
One of the two barns constructed ca. 1933 for Matthew Eylar is at 362 Diamond Springs Road. The one-story, center entrance, vertically planked, metal sheathed, gambrel roof barn is built into the side of a bluff with a cement supporting wall. The barn measures one hundred and twenty-four feet from east to west and seventy feet from north to south and is built into the northern bluff. Originally constructed as a stock barn for Angus cattle, together with its sister structure, the Eylar Barn no 1. Mathew Eylar was a native of Doniphan County who managed the Hatch Book Typewrite Company in New York City before he established a cattle breeding operation. Eylar sold his large farm in 1944. The building maintains a high degree of architectural and structural integrity. The significant alteration to the barn has been the replacement of the original roof with the current metal sheathing. It continues to be used for storage of equipment.
Eylar Barn #2 (ca. 1933).
On the way to the Eylar Barn no 1 is another rather photogenic barn on 115th Road.
At the same time as the sister barn I just left, the first Eylar Barn was constructed to house the Angus cattle of Matthew Eylar. The barn, at 316 Coronado Road, is built into the side of a bluff with a cement supporting wall. It did not look like the barn was in use when I visited and a house close by had succumbed to the elements and, judging by a big pile of wood and roofing material, fallen into permanent and irreversible disrepair.
Eylar Barn #1 (ca. 1933).
On my way to the next barn on the list I noticed a small, single grave marker or head stone on 180th Road marking the grave of the 2-year old son of J & M Springer, who died on November 6, 1880.
George Hanson Barn (ca. 1885).
Located at 1078 Ash Point Road, the George Hanson Barn (ca. 1885) is on the Hanson Farm near the tiny hamlet of Leona (pop. 73). This is another barn on the tour around Doniphan County that is in good condition and continues to be in use – at least, from the looks of it. While I stopped to take some pictures four horses wandered over to the fence to see what I was doing.
Supposedly there is a second barn at 1266 Ash Point Road but I could not locate it and it may have fallen down.
Historic Stone Barn at 205th Road just into Brown County.
A mile or so west on 205th Road, at the intersection with Timber Road is the Historic Stone Barn. This barn is not part of the tour of Doniphan County barns; as a matter of fact, it is located in neighboring Brown County. I noticed this landmark on Google Maps but otherwise could not find any information about the barn. This is one of the few barns I saw today that has a complete stone exterior that looked in fairly good shape. The entrance door was unlocked but it was too dark to take any pictures inside the barn. Given its proximity to a corn or wheat field, this barn should provide a great photogenic opportunity in late summer or early fall when the crops are full grown.
At 1269 Castleton Road, on the East side of the road, stands the Ritenour Barn (ca. 1875). A second barn overlooking a small pond is at the same address on the West side of the road. The barn was constructed for William Ritenour, a native of Shenadoah County, Virginia who settled in Doniphan County in 1856. It is an example of a three-bay, center entrance, full byre, vertically planked, gable roof and limestone foundation structure with a threshing floor and louvered venting. This barn, as well as the one across the street, continues to be in use.
Ritenour Barn (ca. 1875).
Barn across the road from the Ritenour Barn.
Constructed ca. 1881 for John Hale the barn at 1373 K-120 HWY, is an example of a three-bay, double entrance, full byre barn. John Hale migrated to north-east Kansas from Sandusky, Ohio, in 1870. By 1915 Hale owned 2370 acres in Doniphan County in addition to land holdings in other counties in Kansas and Missouri. The Doniphan County farms remained in the Hale family until the 1930s. The barn looks somewhat neglected and may be in need of repairs, but continues to be used for storage, as far as I could tell.
John Hale Barn (ca. 1881).
Barn on the East side of K-120 HWY.
Opposite of the Hale Barn, on the East side of K-120, is another barn not listed as part of the tour. In contrast to the Hale Barn, this one appears to be in use for farming.
Barn just north of Mission Creek, on the West side of K-7 HWY.
On the West side of K-7 HWY, at 270th Road and just north of Mission Creek stands another barn that was not on my list. When I noticed this barn I thought this could be the Nuzum Barn but that one is actually on the south side of the creek, hidden among trees and bushes next to a corn field. Constructed ca. 1870 for Godfrey Nuzum, a Virginia native who settled in Doniphan County in 1855, the barn is an example of gable entrance, full byre, limestone and German lap sided, and gable roof structure with a limestone foundation, a threshing floor, and a full hay loft. The western wall is built into the embankment. Ramped entrances supported by limestone retaining walls lead to single leaf rolling doors in the north and south elevations at the threshing floor level. Door openings pierce the limestone foundation wall below the threshing doors in the north and south elevations and centrally in the east elevation. Windows pierce the limestone and wood walls on all three levels. The byre and the threshing floor levels are divided by a center aisle with stock stalls on either side. Tongue and groove siding panels much of the wall space on the threshing floor level and panels the stairwell leading to the hay loft. In 1985, the nomination form noted that the barn was unoccupied but that the building maintained a moderate degree of architectural and structural integrity. Since then, the level of integrity of the building has decreased rather alarmingly. One of the walls has almost completely caved in and part of the roof has collapsed. Overgrowth makes exploring this barn somewhat challenging. Resurrecting this barn to the state it was built in will require quite a lot of monetary expenses.
Godfrey Nuzum Barn (ca. 1870).
On the north end of Troy, at 505 N 2nd TER, stands the Kinkhead Barn, constructed ca. 1917, for George Kinkhead, an educator and businessman. The barn is an example of a three-bay, center and side entrance, full byre, board and batten, gambrel roof and brick foundation structure with a full loft. This barn is at the end of a private driveway and I did not get close enough to see what it is being used for. The entry door and windows have been replaced.
Kinkhead Barn (ca. 1917).
Approximately 4.5 miles north of Wathena, at 1530 St Columbus Road, stands the John Silvers Barn (ca. 1905). The barn is has three bays, a gable-end entrance, board-and-batten siding with a full byre and limestone foundation. The building maintains its original function as a dairy barn. This is the only barn on this tour where I did not leave my car – all because of a barking dog that chased my vehicle. While I am a dog lover who has two German Shepherds, I remain leery about approaching other dogs, especially the ones who seem to be very protective of their homes.
John Silvers Barn (ca. 1905).
The Herman Chrystal Barn, built in 1890, is located on the Franklin F Kien hoff Farm near Wathena, at 881 Port William Road. The barn is an example of a three-bay, center entrance, board-and-batten structure with a full byre and limestone foundation. Herman Chrystal was a native of Wurtemburg, Germany. Herman purchased the land on which his barn stands in 1869 from his father, who had purchased it in 1859. Chrystal sold the farm in 1910.
Chrystal Barn (ca. 1890).
Built in 1889, the Fred W Kienhoff barn is located at 150th Road and Oxide Road. The barn is a one-story, three-bay, center entrance building that is vertically planked and has a partial byre with a limestone foundation. The barn was originally used for draft animals. The Kienhoff family immigrated from Prussia to Doniphan County in 1865. Fred W Kienhoff purchased the land on which the barn stands in 1882 from his father. The Kienhoff family retained ownership of the barn until 1954, when it was purchased by Jerry M Baker. In 2023 it was not in use anymore.
Fred W Kienhoff Barn.
The last barn on this tour is the Nicholas Bohr Barn, constructed in 1879. The barn, located at 1654 150th Road, is an example of a three-bay barn with a central entrance, partial byre, board-and-batten siding, a gable roof, and a limestone foundation. Nicholas Bohr was a native of Alsace/Lorraine region separating France and Germany. The Bohr family retained ownership of the barn until 1956, when it was purchased by Joseph Staudenmaier.
Nicholas Bohr Barn (ca. 1879).
Photographs taken on April 1, 2023.
[1] https://www.kshs.org/resource/national_register/MPS/Byre_Bluff_Barns_Doniphan_County_mps.pdf
[2] To cut or fit for insertion in a mortise.
[3] https://dpcountyks.com/document/historic-barn-tour-doniphan-county/
[4] https://www.kshs.org/natreg/natreg_listings/search/prop:/city:/county:DP/arch:/category:/thematic:/keywords:/records:all/submit:SEARCH